Seasonal Eating

The way to keep the food miles down is to eat in sync with whats in season for your region. Its a simple idea that would once have been the only option for most people. In modern first world countries it now requires an effort to know what is in season and to track down local producers. If you have a local farmers market then patronise it well so the producers keep going to the trouble of turning up.

Slowfood Sydney has a useful blog that regularly posts information on seasonal produce, here is the latest entry.

What’s lurking under the lid

Many of us have been aware of many of the dangers associated with processed foods and the artificial chemicals introduced by the food industry for some time. I was reminded of the horror story again recent after reading Michael Pollans excellent book
In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto.
The book starts with a blistering criticism of “nutritionism” – his term for the ideology that underlies much of the food marketing and health food industry. The work specifically refers to the idea that individual nutrients are the key to understanding food and that food is no more than the sum of its parts (in this case the parts are those that have been identified by the food industry as having valuable qualities). 

The second half of Pollans book provides a series of guidelines for eating. The simplest of which is

Eat food, Not too much, Mostly plants

Here are some of the other gems (paraphrased), each of which is given a concise explanation in the book

  • Avoid food products containing ingredients that are unfamiliar, unpronounceable, more than five in number or contain high fructose corn
  • Avoid products that make health claims
  • Get out of the supermarket whenever possible
  • Eat well grown food from health soils
  • Regard non traditional foods with skepticism

There are many others. One that has resonated with me since I read the book is the reference to no more than 5 ingredients. Its a simple yardstick for how processed a food is and quite effective when selecting foods during the weekly shop. Although it has to be said that not many foods in the supermarket can meet this rule!

Excessive packaging is another give away and for this reason as well as the fact that it is inert, I have always looked out for food in glass jars. After all people have been preserving food in glass and ceramic jars for millenia. However, the humble glass jar turns out to be harboring a hidden menace. Its the seal under the lid. These are usually made from PVC and contain chemicals including Plasticisers which give it the properties to form a good seal. They work by softening the PVC and can make up as much as 40% of the gasket. The plasticisers are mostly made from expoxidised soybean oil (ESBO) and a combination of phylates. ESBO reacts with hydrogen chloride released from the PVC under the high temperatures used when sealing the jar. This forms chlorohydrins which can be toxic. Phylates are not permitted at all in food materials in the US and some have been banned from use in toys (eg DEHP).

Choice magazine recently published an article highlighting Plasticisers in food. In their tests many products including those labelled organic contained levels ESBO and Phylates in excess recommended EU limits. The foods which showed high levels were those with fat levels over 4g per 100g. A typical example is pasta sauce which often has much more fat than that.

Check out the article have a look around on the web and you will be looking at glass jars with fresh eyes.

Biodynamic Wine in the news

Michelle Gadd of organicwine.com.au has a good summary of recent coverage of biodynamic wine in the Australia media.

biodynamic wine revolution

With lots of recent media interest in biodynamic wine producers the rest of the world is starting to discover the absolute quality of biodynamic wines.

She is offering some excellent mixed cases of Australian biodynamic wines including the Krinklewood Vordelho mentioned here on Slowlane recently.

Her new Winter 2008 Catalog also has a special on a mixed box of Tamburlaine organic wine. I ordered one of these a few months ago and was very pleased with the value for money.

Enjoy.

Organic vs Local

These days we have a reasonable range of organic food available to us locally whether through the supermarket, our local shops and/or box deliveries. However, in common with nearly all modern food, much of it travels substantial distances before it gets to us. In addition it is often out of season for our local environs.

This has created a modern conundrum where shoppers seeking to buy organic must often choose a product with many air and road miles included in its true cost of availability.

From a purity of food perspective the decision is easy, always choose the organic or biodynamic product. But if you are concerned about your carbon debt or eating in season, its sometimes seems that buying locally grown non organic is a better choice.

This dilemma is nicely captured in a cartoon by Mike Adams.

NewImage

The article accompanying the cartoon at www.naturalnews.com is worth reading and goes into some detail to explain the options shown in the cartoon.

Here in Australia we are relatively less affected by this problem than Europe in particular, where a great deal of the fruit and vegetables available seem to have been air freighted from the mediterrean or the US.

The ideal arrangement is to grow some foods yourself (homesteaders may grow nearly all their needs) and also to live near a variety of small farmers who produce the other products that you need. It is then possible to enter into schemes like Community Supported Agriculture where farmers and consumers establish direct trading relationships. The next best thing is a local farmers market, which fortunately are starting to become more common and feature a expanding range of products.

I recently found the web site of the 1466group, two couples who have joined forces to farm biodynamically and to setup a Community Supported Agriculture system on the mid North Coast of NSW. As someone who tried to move away from the city and eventually came back for various reasons, I admire their efforts and wish them every success. Check them out here.

Krinklewood Biodynamic Wine

The Krinklewood vineyard was recently given a positive review in the local media so I thought I would give it a try. We would have gotten around to it anyway as we are very keen on organic and biodynamic wines.

So last night I picked up a bottle of the 2007 Verdelho which we tried with some high quality lebanese food at a local restaurant. Wow, this is a delicious wine. I haven’t drunk much Verdelho and was not sure whether I would find it interesting. So we were pleasantly surprised to find a light crisp taste with definite citrus/passionfruit characters. To my palate it was not unlike a mild sauvignon blanc. Highly recommended and very good value at around $A21.

Importantly there were no negative effects the next morning :)
Krinklewood_Verdelho
Here a few notes on the winemaking (read more on their website)
“The fruit was picked in the cool of the night at optimum ripeness and was crushed with only the premium free-run juices being used. Fermentation took place in Stainless Steel tanks under cool conditions. The wine was bottled early to retain freshness of the primary fruit characters with very fine filtration”
Its good to see bottles boldly declaring their biodynamic origins prominently on the label. Until recently many makers of organic and biodynamic wines were loathe to promote this aspect of their wine, apparently many wine buyers were of the view that this was synonymous with poor quality.

Its also encouraging to see biodynamic wine of this quality coming from the Hunter Valley region. I’ve written previously about the inland region of Mudgee where many of the organic/biodyamic fruit is grown successfully, partly due to the lack of moisture related problems that are difficult treat with the limited arsenal available to the organic/biodynamic grower.

Slow Food University

When Slowlane joined Slow Food recently they sent a booklet outlining their various initiatives, The Slow Food Companion. Two ventures that sounded particularly interesting were the University of Gastronic Sciences (UNISG) and the Terre Madre.
The university is based in Piedmont and claims to be the first academic institution in the world dedicated to the study of gastronomy. Subjects include Botany, Food Technology, History of Agriculture, Sensory Analysis and Anthropology. The curriculum combines humanities and sciences with food technology and culture. An article appeared today in the Sydney Morning Herald about a local man who is studying at the UNISG, he is living a simple life in the local village, going to the market three times a week and practising what they are learning by cooking for fellow students in the evening.
Also mentioned in the article was the Terra Madre, an annual Slow Food gathering in Turin that bring together thousands of artisanal food producers, farmers, fisherman from 150 countries, cooks, academics from over 200 universities, representatives of NGOS, journalists and of course slow foodies of other descriptions. This years Terra Madre promises to be huge, I hope to attend one of these in the next few years. Sounds amazing.

Organic Wine

Here in Australia we have a vibrant wine industry including an increasing number of vineyards producing organic and/or biodynamic wine.

We are especially keen on the wines from Mudgee in central NSW. This is a dry inland region that is ideal for organic growing due to the lack of humidity which reduces the amount of mould and fungus problems compared to locations closer to the coast, these are generally treated using chemical sprays.

One of the oldest is Botobolar, they produce a range of affordable wines that are great examples of big red’s, not too subtle but good value drinking. The vineyard is unirrigated and has been much affected by drought in recent years, sometimes picking no grapes at all for a season.

Our favourite vineyard in Mudgee is Lowe Wines, these are really classy organic wines and the cellar door experience when the owners Jane or David are around is definitely worth making the trek for. They are very passionate about their wines, especially the award winning Zinfandel to which we have become quite attached. The 2003 Zinfandel won an international award, beating off well established makers from the US and elsewhere. These are hard to come by now, we recently opened a bottle to ensure that it was keeping well and were blown away, its still a fantastic wine. Now we have to hide the 5 remaining bottles from ourselves or they will all go the same way.

Also worth a mention is Thistle Hill.

There are many others around the country and a great place to find them is www.organicwine.com.au.

Recently major chains have started to see the light and are experimenting with stocking some organic wine. Last week the Vintage Cellars chain advertised a Sauvignon Blanc they have sourced from a co-operative in France. Its a pity they haven’t chosen to promote a local label, still I am keen to try it.

For an international overview view of organic wine have a look at the Organic Wine Journal.